Make Your Own Texture
As an artist you may want to make your own texture to use in paintings whether they are abstract or not. I personally found that having my own texture mix gave me more control over what I could do with it.
None of the ready made textures that you could buy cut it for me in terms of thickness, so that is why I came up with my own recipe for texture to use under my paintings.
Cost Effective
Not only can it give you more control over the consistency, but it can also be quite cost effective to make your own texture for use in your paintings or other artwork.
The reason for this is that you can use much cheaper building materials rather than materials that are specifically made for artists.
Often artist specific products have a somewhat inflated price as they are considered specialized materials. They can do a good job but in particular if you are working on a large scale then it might become a bit cost prohibitive.
Ingredients
I have been making my own texture for a number of years and in that time have used quite a few different ingredients. However there are a few key things that you need to include to make your own painting texture:
A thick product for the base that provides the substance to your texture mix. The type of material that you need for this is something like stucco, plaster powder or ready mixed plaster or something such as artex.
Depending on where you live you can get hold of different materials. This is one of the products that I can recommend in the US – it’s not stucco but something pretty close. There are only a few options it seems that are sometimes not available but see what you can find. Sometimes Stucco pops up on Amazon but not often.
Also, I did find some Stucco on Amazon in the UK at one time but it now seems to be out of stock again. Once again you can find this ready mixed plaster which is pretty similar here (Amazon UK).
Add to this one essential ingredient to make the texture paste flexible enough to add to a canvas and not crack off. I highly recommend you use PVA.
In different parts of the world PVA comes in different forms (in the US you can use Elmers Glue), in the UK PVA is widely available for example this one is a premium art PVA.
Hopefully you can get hold of some where you are. The essential part of the PVA is the V – vinyl, which gives the PVA flexibility. So you can buy some PVA Craft Glue or some industrial PVA which is often available from hardware or DIY stores.
If you want your texture to have some colour then you can also add paint to it, this can be useful if you want to use it for a base but the colour will be changed by the white of the texture.
Painting Texture Recipe
So, here are a few recipes for you to make your own texture:
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Mix stucco with PVA in the mix of 3:1 (or try different mixtures to get different results from 2:1 to 5:1)
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Ready-mixed plaster and PVA – similar to stucco in quantity
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Mix gesso, plaster powder and PVA in relative quantities of 1:2:1
Basically you can try different options and once you have your mixture you can also add other things to it e.g. sand to get different effects. My tried and tested recipe is stucco and PVA so I know that works the best for me.
If you make up too much texture then you can keep it in an airtight container but try and use it within a few days (or weeks if it is really airtight).
Once you have applied the texture to the painting, make sure it is fully dry before you paint over it. This will usually be at least 24 hours but longer if it is put on thicker or in some atmospheric conditions. You can then paint over it with either acrylics or oils – if you are using oils I would recommend putting a coat of acrylic paint first.
Please note that I am an Amazon affiliate and may earn commission from any purchases made trough links on this website 🙂
Comments List
adminOctober 15, 2021 6:01 pm /
Hi Josephine, no, if it is a primed canvas then you don't need to put anything else on first.
Heidi HollayMay 20, 2021 11:45 am /
Thank you! Just saw your post. Hope you are still answering. I live in the United States and found Joint Compound. Actually I live in a house that has textured walls. We had to put a hole in wall and a contractor used Joint Compound. Looks perfect. I used it on canvas but it shrinks. Have you heard of this product? Maybe I should mix it with something else? Let me know please. Thank you!adminJune 3, 2021 6:25 pm /
Hi Heidi and sorry for the delay in replying. Yes I have heard of it and am sure people have used this before mixed with PVA to give it a bit more elasticity.
Debra WebberAugust 19, 2020 4:50 pm /
Hello. I just found your article on Painting-texture and I find it fascinating! Love that you're willing to share your knowledge, thank you for this. I so hope you're still answering and commenting on people's questions. I see that the last was in 2019. I need some advice. Here's my dilemma: Years ago I purchased a piece of art that was done on wood and there was a house on it. The house was "stucco". We moved and the movers chipped some of the stucco off so I've been looking for a way to repair it. (I am a painter so I don't really know if that helps or not). From what I can tell in this article these stucco recipes are for a smooth stucco product, yes? The house on the piece of art I have has a grainy texture, like you find homes in the Southwest of the country. I saw, somewhere in all this info, that you said sand could be added as well as color (i.e. paint?). Would the ratios be the same? What kind of paint would I add to the stucco so it didn't thin it out? I definitely do not want it to crack! What would I need to prime the wood with prior to the stucco? After? Currently it does not have acrylic on it but I'm wondering if a coat of matte acrylic would protect it without yellowing? What type of acrylic coating would be best? I'm sorry to flood you with, what, about 8 questions all at once. I merely am so very excited at the prospect of being able to repair my art piece that I wanted all my questions in one place in the hopes that you could provide me answers for all of them. Really don't want to bother you with 100 comments. Please, please, please help. Thank you so much. Love the flower you shared with everyone. Now I'm heading to your website to check it all out. Thanks again for the article and your willingness to share your techniques. Not just everyone would do that.adminAugust 24, 2020 12:08 pm /
Hi Debra, sorry for the delay in getting back to you! Let me go through your questions to the best of my ability! So if it is back to raw wood then I would use a sealant on it first - you can buy specialist wood sealants or you could use PVA - a few coats of that, allowing each to dry in between. Then yes, you can add sand to the stucco/pva mixture, just add until you get the graininess that you need. If you apply it pretty thinly then it should not crack, I'm thinking a couple of mm. You can add paint to the stucco but it just ends up being a pastel version of that paint colour so I would paint over the top of it once it is dry. When you say acrylic coating are you thinking of a varnish (maybe that is a UK thing!)? I guess it depends what else the house is painted with but if it is all textured then I would probably apply a spray sealant - something like this https://amzn.to/32r0F3Y - hope that helps a bit!
Susan KotlerOctober 10, 2019 10:55 am /
On bigger canvases with this texture applied, how do you keep it from cracking in the future? It’s so fragile I’m afraid the slightest bump will break it.adminOctober 10, 2019 12:36 pm /
Hi Susan, I've not really had any problems with bigger canvases. Only very rarely have I had a piece break off when I have been transporting to fairs and events and then I have just either painted over it or filled it in and painted it. But it will only crack or break off if it gets dug maybe with something sharp so once it's hung on a wall it is fine and I make sure to package everything really well when transporting.
MariaSeptember 29, 2019 8:28 am /
Hi. Would plaster powder be the same as plaster of Paris? Can I use that for my texture paste?adminSeptember 30, 2019 1:41 pm /
Hi Maria, yes I have used plaster powder before - I have found it a bit tricky to get really smooth but that is probably just me!
Julia KAugust 21, 2019 8:18 pm /
I'd imagine latex caulk would work phenomenally. 123 bullseye paint, usually used as a primer, makes literally anything stick to well, anything. You can cover oil paint and paint latex (let alone acrylic) over it. I've wondered why no one just uses basic caulk and then bullseye primer on canvas. Am I missing something? I'm not an artist. I wanted to paint with my daughter some abstract work just for fun and art supplies are ridiculous. I have an ugly painting I figured I'd just paint over and I'm seeing this is an insanely expensive undertaking. Why are art supplies so much more than construction supplies? I'm so lost on the differences. Why aren't latex paints used in art? Chalk paint- my god- it's not even good paint and its $50 for a tiny jar. What am I missing?adminAugust 22, 2019 12:10 pm /
Hi Julia, yes you are totally right - latex caulk works fine and there is no reason that you shouldn't use that and the other things that you have mentioned when doing a fun project. I think the key thing is that the artist supplies have undergone testing for their archival qualities so that something painted now may last hundreds of years or longer! They are also designed not to fade etc. So if you are just doing something for fun that does not need to last decades then go ahead and use whatever you like!
KimJuly 2, 2019 3:14 pm /
Hi! Great article-thanks for providing this info. I am looking to use a plaster on a large scale (walls) so this is a great find! American Amazon and Canadian Amazon prices differ significantly - here, the Stucco Patch is $45. Do you think drywall compound would have the same qualities to mix with PVA? Thanks!adminJuly 3, 2019 2:27 pm /
Hi Kim, thanks for stopping by! I'm not sure of the technical differences between stucco and drywall compound but it looks like they may be made of slightly differing materials so may have different qualities when set but I can't see why you can't use it as it is possible to use a number of different types of plaster. I think that if you test it out first it would be a good idea. Sorry I can't be of more help and good luck!
CassandraJune 2, 2019 3:15 am /
Are these mixtures what some are using to make these large, thick impasto flowers on canvas? I read something about porcelain powder. Any suggestions?adminJune 4, 2019 8:07 pm /
Hi Cassandra, I have used it for large flowers but there is some cracking (which I think adds character!) so maybe using porcelain powder would give you a smoother thick mixture.
Jim EberleMarch 22, 2019 8:29 pm /
Hi! Thank you for posting your technique on this. I am very new to painting anything, but one night I painted a full moon on a clear acrylic panel ( clear plastic, about 12"x12"). I wanted to make craters but could not find anything that would stick to the plastic. Then I mixed some drywall powder with clear silicone (like you use to caulk around windows), about 50/50. It textures quite nicely,and as a bonus it doesn't shrink or crack! I left it the white color and painted the insides of the crater shades of silver and grey. When I put a small light behind it top tops of the craters glowed because the drywall powder sunk to the bottom and the clear silicone rose to the top! Completely unexpected!adminMarch 25, 2019 11:31 am /
Wow that sounds very cool Jim!
Aliya AhmedFebruary 24, 2019 3:22 pm /
Hi thanks for the tips I used the pva glue and talcum powder, i was happy with the thickness, however the colour seem to dull slightly. Will this be the same if I use plaster powder. Please help me solve me issue. AliyaadminMarch 22, 2019 2:50 pm /
Hi Aliya, sorry I didn't see your comment earlier. I do find that you get a slightly different effect of the paint when it goes on the texture - for me it didn't actually change the colour or dull it but just gave it a better base to put the paint on.
Cyndi MeyerFebruary 6, 2019 1:42 am /
What is the formula for a smooth, slightly thicken texture for a canvas? And for a painting on wood?adminFebruary 6, 2019 9:59 am /
Hi Cyndi, I would say that if you want the texture to be smooth then why do you need it to be thick? You can use this texture thinly and it should be pretty smooth but the thicker it gets the more likely it is to have cracks and features to it. I guess if you used a smooth plaster skim with some PVA (but still not too thick) then you could get smooth results but that would need some experimentation. In terms of wood I would definitely not texture on wood as it would suck out any moisture from the texture and make it crack. You may get lucky if you coat it with PVA a few times and allow to dry with each coat but personally I wouldn't take that risk.
NedaaJanuary 26, 2019 10:05 am /
I used stucco and pva 3:1 for my large canva as you said but I found plenty of little cracks what can I do to vanish or disappear these lines and stop them from increasing before I paint with acrylic ?adminJanuary 26, 2019 12:32 pm /
Hi Nedaa - the thicker you apply it and the more stucco you have in relation to the PVa, then the more likely it is to crack. You don't need to have it on thickly to get some really good results without cracking (although personally I like the cracking and often use it for extra effect by rubbing gold or silver powder in). So I would say add more PVA (you could do it 1:1) and put it on more thinly. If you want to fill in the cracks that you have then you could use a brush and a mixture that has much more pva in but I haven't ever tried to do this as I love cracks so it is all a bit of an experiment!NedaaJanuary 26, 2019 9:50 am /
I used stucco and pva to my canva asto you said to make texture but I found plenty of little cracks after it's been dried ... I'm confused .... I don't know what to do ... I don't want to give up my work but I rather want to complete it to find some pieces of it has been fallen down .
Lynette SpryMay 7, 2018 3:54 am /
This is such a great tutorial, thanks for that. Also to the people who've asked questions, they are very useful also. Keep up the instructions, they really help.
Michelle MMarch 23, 2018 4:29 am /
Hi, I have really enjoyed reading everyone's insights! I am doing a large textured flower piece and I make rigid canvases and use joint compound to texture my backgrounds, but I would like to make my own heavy body acrylic for the high dimension flowers. I was thinking of getting a little nutty with it and trying a mix of joint compound, silicone caulking, Elmer's glue and acrylic. I am painting white flowers so I am willing to paint the flowers again after they dry in case the caulking would yellow. My question is......has anyone acheived a mix that allows for THICK dimension and height WITHOUT cracking? I am going to give it a try 😊 Thanks for your help!!! MichelleadminMarch 23, 2018 9:22 am /
That sounds like a fun experiment. I guess maybe the key thing is to find a base compound that will go on as thick as you want it. E.g. the plaster skim I have says it will do cracks up to 3mm so I would expect it to be able to go that thick without cracking. I did do a few flower pieces where the whole canvas was textured and I carved out the flowers. Will see if I can upload an image here:
SUBARNA TALUKDERJanuary 29, 2018 5:32 am /
Hi ! Great information! Recently I am thinking of adding some good texture to my canvas. If I use stucco+PVA mixture,and apply it say a little over quarter inch thick, how long will it take to dry and will it crack in this thickness? If I apply over linen canvas should I put anything before on the canvas? If i paint with oil, should I gesso the texture? And lastly, can I varnish with gamvar? Thanks!adminJanuary 29, 2018 8:13 pm /
Hi Subarba, thanks. I think if you apply it that thick it will crack and will take a few days to dry (obviously a lot of it depends on atmospheric conditions). I recently did a painting with wood shavings added and that took around 36 hours to dry. I think any canvas should be primed if it isn't already. I think when I have used it with oils before I have usually put a coat of acrylic paint over it first of all to seal it all but whether this is essential I couldn't say...
LizAugust 26, 2017 10:25 pm /
Thank you for this post. Will wallboard joint compound work instead of the stucco powder?adminAugust 27, 2017 2:42 pm /
That definitely sounds like something that should work as long as you add the PVA. Let me know how you get on.
Lou AndersonMarch 4, 2017 8:38 am /
Hi there, I've read a lot of the comments. All great but I want a filler for texture but also want to be able to crack it....any ideas please? I don't want it shiny either, it's for skin. Thanks, LouadminMarch 4, 2017 10:14 am /
Hi Lou, I wonder if some kind of crackle glaze might work - something like this? http://amzn.to/2mmnfHn
FrankiOctober 11, 2016 3:18 pm /
I buy Flex n' Fill from Home Depot. It is the only flexible wall sealer they carry. I put it on the cracks in my daughter's sheet rock. She had an earthquake and it didn't crack again! She had problems with those recurring cracks for years. Now I use it on canvas. It's premixed and inexpensive!adminNovember 4, 2016 9:38 pm /
That sounds great Franki!
JoneJuly 13, 2016 8:00 pm /
Hi, thank you for these valuable recipes ! Can I roll these textured canvases for shipment ?adminJuly 13, 2016 8:03 pm /
Thanks for the comment! No the texture will crack off if you roll it I would expect.
ClaudetteApril 29, 2016 6:16 am /
Has anyone ever seen texture made in a painting by adding brush bristels to the paint ?adminMay 4, 2016 1:15 pm /
Well I have inadvertently left some bristles in a painting that have come out of a brush but I haven't done it on purpose! However, there is no reason why you couldn't and I think it would look pretty interesting if you used a lot of them.
Tammy ClarkMarch 24, 2016 2:24 am /
I just learned about texture painting today so I am so excited to find this site.
kimMarch 3, 2016 5:30 am /
I'm greatful for your posts!!! In am very new to all this and wonder if I can use water colors over the plaster compound or will it dissolve or seep into the texture? Thx!!adminMarch 4, 2016 12:01 pm /
Hi, I suspect it might get absorbed a fair bit but maybe if you seal it first with PVA or something but personally I think you would be better off using acrylics or oils. However, there is no harm in trying things out!
BobbiMarch 3, 2017 10:18 pm /
I've Modge Podged paper towel (the white kind that comes in the big rolls in public restrooms) to various surfaces and used watercolor over them with some pretty good results, perhaps you could try it over the plaster compound texture.adminMarch 4, 2017 10:09 am /
Sounds like a great idea Bobbi. I have added paper towels on top of the texture or just applied it with PVA. Mod Podge is good but for me I find it expensive and PVA does a similar thing on a budget!
SteveFebruary 8, 2016 9:07 pm /
BTW, I also wanted to thank you. It was your original Blog posting ( the basis of this thread) that helped get the information I need to start making my own Joint Compound texture that I primarily use. It answered so many of my questions and eased my worries and concerns about apply the texture to canvas...at a significant lower cost! Thank you.adminFebruary 9, 2016 7:32 am /
Glad to be of help Steve!SteveFebruary 8, 2016 8:59 pm /
Well, used a plaster of paris mixture today. While it appears to be giving me the texture effect I was looking for, and appears to be drying solid, I could have gotten the same effect using my joint compound mixture as well. In addition, the Plaster of Paris mixture dries very fast and is difficult to clean up tools afterwards. A lot of trouble, not sure I will do again. But I love to experiment with different ways to texture. my favorite is still wallpaper paste and tissue paper. It gives me a great background texture that can look like leather graining and provide a simple background texture effect.
GracielaFebruary 6, 2016 9:08 am /
Thank you for the admin generousity and for all the other comments. It is very interesting and helpful. What Fthalo; the man speaking in Spanish said, is that he recommends to give the canvas a coat of PVA dissolved on water, prior to apply the texture, and without letting it to dry. CheersadminFebruary 6, 2016 11:25 am /
Thanks for that - it sounds like a good idea, I haven't tried that!
AlanNovember 5, 2015 3:37 am /
Hi. Can I use just calcium sulfate and PVA? What would be the amounts? ThanksadminNovember 25, 2015 10:14 am /
Hi, sorry for the delay in replying, I seem to be missing the notifications. I would think that you are able to use this as it seems to be a similar chemical composition to plaster of paris. If you are using it in powder form then I would imagine that you would either need to use a lot of PVA or add some water to it, although as I have not tried it this would be purely guesswork on my behalf! Let us know if you try it and how it works out as it is always good to hear of alternatives.
GrahamOctober 21, 2015 10:08 am /
Thanks for sharing your recipe. PVA glue is great for this kind of application. I've read that PVA glue can expire within a year or two even in an unopened container. And faster after opening. It will last longer if stored in a cool dark place and sealed airtight. You can tell when it has gone off - it changes from white to transparent yellowish, and gets an unpleasant smell. It probably wouldn't be usable at that point. So not a good idea to spend money on bulk amounts of PVA unless you really are going to use it all up within a year or so. And buy it from a place where it hasn't been sitting on a store shelf for too long.adminOctober 22, 2015 7:01 pm /
Hi Graham, that's interesting. I've never had that problem with PVA I have to say and I've currently got a few pots on the go that are at least a year or 2 old that are absolutely fine.
Christy JennOctober 14, 2015 2:24 pm /
I love your posts they are interesting and helpful. I have heard many people making modeling paste by mixing 2 parts acrylic paint with 1 part PVA glue and 1 part talc (like baby powder or even some people used baking soda). Have you ever tried this? PS I have seen some of your work and its great, do you have a website for just your artwork? Thanks!adminOctober 14, 2015 3:04 pm /
Hi Christy, thanks very much for your comments. No, I haven't tried the mix with talc I guess for a couple of reasons, one being I figure paint is more expensive than the texture I am using! But it does sound like a good idea if you don't have the other ingredients for the texture as I know that I have all 3 of those in the house so maybe I should give it a try just to see how it compares! yes my website is www.AzureArt.com - it needs a bit of updating as I am guilty of spending time on other things!Christy JennOctober 15, 2015 10:24 am /
Thanks so much for your quick response! I checked out your website very nice work I really like your colors and textures in the abstract pieces. So I made a mistake and the formula I was talking about was PVC like Elmer's white school glue not PVA. Do you know if there is a big difference between the two? Last night I played around with some formulas. I did not have anything from your list so I played with what I had. I did the glue, paint, and baby powder recipe which turned out ok but very soft (maybe too much glue?). It could be desirable if you like soft mounds but I don't really. Then I had gesso in powder so I threw that into the mix with the glue, baby powder and paint with diverse proportions and it came out better more harsh edges and firmer like modeling paste but it cracks when applied very heavy :-( maybe I should put more glue?! I tried it without the paint and it does not hold together very well. Well I will have to see if I can get a hold of the materials you were talking about so I can see how that turned out. Thanks for your advice and kindness!adminOctober 22, 2015 7:04 pm /
Hi Christy, I don't think there is a lot of difference between the PVC and PVC glues - I think the V is the key bit to give it elasticity! My recipe also cracks when put on thickly. I've not tried adding more glue when I use it like this because I actually like the cracking! But yes in theory more glue should help a bit I think.
patSeptember 27, 2015 5:38 pm /
Hi, I have just used texture artex on a canvas, on reading all the posts I think I should have added some PVA, I have also tried coving adhesive only because it dries in 24 hours, they both seem pretty stable at the moment, they have just had their first coat of paint and they are both looking pretty good, I will have to cross fingers they dont crackadminSeptember 27, 2015 9:36 pm /
Hi Pat if they have dried without cracking you'll probably be ok although I guess there could be a danger of them coming off the canvas if they get knocked. I was also going to try coving adhesive as I actually bought some to stick sone coving up and had loads left! It's pretty strong stuff with a good consistency and as it's an adhesive it may not even need the PVA. Let us know how it goes!
jeffJune 28, 2015 4:54 pm /
hey guys, if it helps, PVA glue is good old basic white craft glue, in USA usually known as Elmers glue, used in most schools , you can buy it at DIY stores as a base to paint over bare plaster to seal it before painting, mix it with talcum powder for a very simple smooth texture paste for a fraction of the cost you pay for texture paste in art shops.adminJune 28, 2015 7:39 pm /
Thanks Jeff, mixing it with talc sounds like a good idea - I'll give that a try!
KathrynMay 14, 2015 2:02 am /
I am looking for a mixture to create heavy cracking, and is durable . Can you please provide some suggestions for me. Thank youadminMay 14, 2015 8:34 am /
Hi Kathryn, well the stucco does provide cracking if you use less PVA so maybe if you used a minimal amount and applied it quite thickly then you could get some good cracking. Would need a bit of experimentation though and I think the less PVA you use the less adhesion it would have but still stucco is used neat on buildings so I would think it would be pretty durable. Maybe it would be better on a less flexible base like wood or board though?
CindySeptember 19, 2016 8:45 pm /
I inadvertently found that if you mix acrylic extender with acrylic paint and water it will crack. I thought it looked pretty cool.adminSeptember 20, 2016 10:26 am /
That sounds interesting!
John StengerFebruary 24, 2015 12:03 am /
Hello I hope this post is not closed! ..When you say I can use Ready Mixed Palster I assume your referring to common Hardware store JOINT COMPOUND for Taping wallboard, how much PVA glue should I add to this?adminMarch 6, 2015 10:03 pm /
Sorry for the delay in replying. No, I'm really talking about plaster that you use to fill holes in the walls. However, I think people have tried using that jointing compound before and it may well have worked. I would try adding about one part of PVA to 3 parts jointing compound and see how that works out.SteveFebruary 8, 2016 3:13 pm /
I use a ready mix joint compound that has a vinyl component to it. Joint Compound is actually not the same as plaster, it is more flexible. I also add Elmers or other craft glue that has a PVA component as well and all work pretty good. I do not put it on the canvas super thick (no need to since a good thin coat can provide a great range of texture. I came this site since I am toying with using Plaster of Paris in hopes of getting a bit thicker texture, one I combine the Joint Compound and glue (sometime acrylic paint the texture compound becomes to thin and will not provide the staying texture I want rather than spreading out/leveling.adminFebruary 8, 2016 8:19 pm /
That sounds like a great idea Steve. Maybe if you add powdered plaster to it that would make it thick enough?
MaddyJanuary 4, 2015 5:45 pm /
Hi, I've tried doing this with the pre-mixed stucco and craft glue (elmers glue all - best I could do for pva in our market), and I'm having an awful time with cracking. I doesn't work in the context of this piece and it's got me worried that it might crack off with time. 1) Have you ever used any additives to make it more flexible? Off the top of my head, I'm imagining maybe silicone based caulk or some other sticky-flexy creature from the paint section at home depot, but I figured why reinvent the wheel if you already have. 2) Is there anything I can "prime" the canvas with to ensure that it will make a tight bond? 3) Have you discovered any limits in application "thickness"? Should I consider a layering approach vs. a pseudo-sculpting one? 4) Off topic, but have you ever attempted tinting your textures using cheaper additives (I'm thinking Rit Fabric dye??)? Sorry to be so verbose. I'm a student, and I'm finding that more than half of the creative process is figuring out how to bring my visions to life without breaking the bank (or lack there of...). Thanks, MaddyadminJanuary 4, 2015 8:21 pm /
Hi Maddy, I think it depends on how thick you put it on. Sometimes I want it to crack so I purposefully put it on really thickly. However, you should be able to get away with a decent texture with no cracking if you add a good amount of glue. Most craft glues seem to be some kind of PVA base (and it is the Vinyl in the PVA that gives it the flexibility so you do really need this). But if not maybe try the building section in home depot as I know in the UK builders use a lot of PVA in their work so maybe you can find some there. If it is cracking too much then add more glue. I think I have even gone as far as 1:1 glue and stucco. I'm not sure that layering would work but I have to admit I haven't tried it. I haven't used anything else to add to it because I guess if I do get a bit of cracking I just embrace it :-)
FthaloNovember 12, 2014 8:04 am /
Perdón. Una cosa muy importante en todos los casos, es humedecer el soporte y procurar pintarlo con PVA disuelto en agua, seguidamente, sin dejarlo secar poner la textura encima. Esto lleva a que penetre el PVA en el tejido, haciendo buen anclaje. Al poner la textura estando húmeda todavía la pintura de PVA, existe continuidad con la textura, dando todo el conjunto un buen anclaje. De todas formas, si la deformación del lienzo es de importancia puede quebrarse algo la textura. Lo ideal, si se va a utilizar derivados del yeso, es utilizar soportes rígidos, como la madera, paredes, etc. Saludos. Fthalo.adminNovember 12, 2014 5:25 pm /
No hablo espanol!FthaloNovember 12, 2014 7:52 am /
Hola. Perdonar que escriba en español, pero no se inglés. El acetato de polivinilo PVA, es la base de la cola blanca, por tanto, se puede utilizar tanto un producto como lo otro. Referente a la carga que se le pone, para dar textura, todos los productos expuestos son derivados del yeso. Pueden ser mas o menos puros, pero si se utilizan en texturas pesadas, carecen de importancia. Un producto que puede utilizarse de carga y que le da flexibilidad, mezclado con el PVA es el material para juntas que se emplea en las uniones de placas de yeso/carton. Vuelvo a pedir disculpas por escribir en español. Saludos. Fthalo.
SafaAugust 9, 2014 4:18 pm /
Hey! I live in Pakistan so I dont know what they call stucco and PVA glue here. I tried to find it but no one knows what I'm talking about. Could you suggest some alternatives for these things for the recipe you provided for texture. I would really appreciate your help. Thankyou!adminAugust 10, 2014 7:22 am /
Hi Safa, there isn't really an alternative for PVA glue but you really should be able to get it in craft shops or builders merchants. You are looking for a white glue that has the word 'vinyl' in somewhere in the description. As for the stucco, that can be difficult to find so you needs a smooth ready mixed plaster which you should be able to get from a builders merchants or diy store. Good luck.SafaAugust 14, 2014 12:11 pm /
I used Dafanch white glue instead of PVA mixed with plaster. And it worked perfectly fine. Thanks for the idea, my paintings have improved a lot!
KomalFebruary 20, 2016 10:38 pm /
Hey safa , can you please tell me the exact ratio and recipe and how you applied this. I am from pakistan too and its hard to find these things. Clear the products and brands aswell. It will help me a lot .. Thank you :)
WillMarch 25, 2014 1:40 am /
I too am new to all this textured artwork stuff! I've tried a mix of 1 part Plaster of Paris (dissolve in hot water 1st) then 1 part PVA glue then approx 2 parts acrylic paint. Seems to work well - I only did it a couple of days ago, but no signs of cracking or falling off so far... One question though - what to seal the 'painting' with once its dry? I've tried a spray on sealer/varnish, but because of the plaster of paris, it just soaks in....adminMarch 25, 2014 4:21 am /
Hi Will, I know a few people who have used plaster of Paris. I think if you paint over the texture with acrylic paint then that should seal it before varnishing. Or you could gesso the texture before painting it else put PVA over the top which should seal it.
habibFebruary 17, 2014 3:53 pm /
Hi, i am looking U from Iran, so, I am wondering to know before to use the texture on canvas there is something like acrylic primer is used, as i heard . i am asking what is it that for?adminFebruary 18, 2014 6:55 pm /
Hi habib, yes I would say you should prime the canvas first. I always use pre-primed canvas so there is no need but if you don't then I would definitely prime as you would normally.
Harold Bronswinkel (live in ARUBA HAVE YOU BEEN HERE ) ??July 28, 2013 2:53 am /
loida is you, loida i am from all the way aruba , and i am a painter ,i order my modeling paste from holland very exspensive , and i got uou with your recipes for modeling paste and gesso. can i use wall or celling compound??? Is that what you call stucco?? I do not know dry stuco !! I dont uderstand 1:2:1 please more clear i know my inglish is not so good !!please i do not want to wait so long because i give classes ! Thank you so much do have a cel: phone????? with all my respect !adminJuly 29, 2013 11:26 am /
Hi, yes modelling paste is very expensive! Unfortunately stucco is hard to get hold of but if you go to a hardware store you can likely get some kind of plaster. If you use that with PVA then you should be good. I don't know what wall or ceiling compound is but it sounds like it might be worth a try if it is plaster based. it is mostly about experimenting with different things until you find something you can get hold of locally and that works well.
LoidaMarch 26, 2013 12:08 am /
Thanks! I finally just ordered some PVA from the UK online. Hopefully it works better than the pva primer. The thing about when I add more pva or paint to the stucco, then it becomes so soft that it is hard to hold the textures. But I will keep experimenting that is for sure..till I find the right mix. Thanks again!LoidaMarch 22, 2013 7:17 pm /
Ok, well, I just ruined another canvas last night :( It chipped off again. It is strange, but whenever I ask the home improvement store people if they carry pva, they don't know what I am talking about. You'd think they would know. So I'm not looking for pva glue? I'm looking for pva? Is that correct? Sorry to be so annoying, but I am desperate here! lol..Thanks so much for your speedy replies and your help. You can feel free to erase any of these messages if they are taking up too much space on your site. Thanks!adminMarch 24, 2013 2:25 pm /
Loida, given a choice between what would be called PVA Primer and PVA glue/adhesive I would go for the glue but both of them seem to work OK. It is the vinyl content that is key really as that gives the elasticity to the stucco/plaster which can be a bit solid. A lot of it is about experimentation though so I would test them out. Get some cheap canvases and try them out there first. With the mixture I have it is quite hard to break it off so if it is coming off easily I would add more PVA to the mix.LoidaMarch 22, 2013 2:19 am /
Or would this be better? http://www.lowes.com/pd_73506-67865-TFC06SMT_0__?productId=3187581&Ntt=stucco&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dstucco&facetInfo=adminMarch 22, 2013 3:46 pm /
Loida, it looks like either of those would be OK but it is difficult to tell without seeing the actual product. Most of this is a trial and error situation so I would give one of them a go and see if it works. The stucco I use is a smooth ready mixed product but each country seems to have its own kind of building materials. From the descriptions both of those sound like a smooth kind of plaster mix so might well be a good thing to use.LoidaMarch 22, 2013 1:11 am /
Hello, So I foun some stucco at my diy store: this is a link. It is called Stucco Patch? Is this the same thing you are using? http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=132898-68-60590&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3011843&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 I'm so confused about this. :(LoidaMarch 21, 2013 6:23 am /
I've been experimenting with trying to make my own modeling paste using plaster of paris and some latex paint...but I've wasted alot of canvases because once it dries, although is looks sturdy, if I try to pick away pieces of the texture, it will chip off. I sell my art, so I can't have that happening to the people who recieve it or possibly risk the texture chipping off during shipping. With the pva and plaster powder, will it be super strong to where you can't pick it off and make it crumble off the canvas even with a lot of pressure? Also, where can I buy alot of pva glue cheap? I looked at the home improvement stores and they don't seem to have any , maybe its under a different name? They had pva primer. Is that the same thing? Thanks alot , LoidaadminMarch 21, 2013 10:32 pm /
Hi Loida, yes I think plaster of paris is maybe a bit light and brittle although I have seen people use it on canvases so maybe they also add something to it. The mixture I use stays on very well. I have actually tried to take it off in the past and it is quite difficult to get off. Also I have shipped paintings and who knows what happens to them in the plane but the texture stays on ok! I think the only way it will come off is if it is poked really hard from the back (I haven't tried it...). Yes a DIY store is the best place to get the PVA. I am pretty sure that the PVA primer has the same effect and is pretty much the same thing. I get my PVA from a DIY store.
kiran dobhalMarch 15, 2013 11:34 am /
Thanks for sharing such knowledge with us....really appericiate you for the information you provided here..m just a beginner after reading at your website i also want to try it .. will revert again with experience after finishing my painting..adminMarch 15, 2013 12:24 pm /
Thanks kiran, I look forward to hearing how you got on.
JeniroseDecember 20, 2012 12:26 pm /
Fantastic blog and thank you. I've been trying to remember how to make my own Gesso and could only recall whiting powder, but not the rest, nor could I remember the proportions, so the whiting powder has been sitting waiting for a few years :) Great information really appreciate your sharing it with us.loidaDecember 20, 2012 5:21 am /
When you refer to stucco and the 3:1 proportion of Stucco to PVA...are you talking about pre-mixed Stucco or powdered Stucco? Sorry, I just don't have any previous knowledge about Stucco and need help finding it at the store. Thanks!adminDecember 20, 2012 2:47 pm /
Hi Ioida, I am using ready mixed stucco as this seems to be a really good smooth paste that may be difficult to get when mixing it yourself! However, if you are used to mixing your own then no doubt you can add the ova to that too once you have mixed it. Thanks Jenirose, I've not heard of whiting powder so I'll have to check that out if I can find it. Always useful to hear other people's methods and glad I can be of help!
PeterSeptember 3, 2012 7:33 pm /
Thanks for the texture recipe, the shop bought texture mediums are far too expensive, i shall give this a whirl. Stucco deosnt seem to be available in the UK, but i will try plaster powder and PVA
MattMarch 8, 2012 8:34 pm /
If I have some of this mixture left over, if I seal it up in an airtight container will it keep or do I need to just toss it? Also do you have any recommendations on tools to spread the mixture ... palette knife is the obvious choice, but maybe you have used some other tools with success. Thanks MattadminMarch 8, 2012 8:53 pm /
Hi Matt, yes if you make up extra and keep it in an airtight container it will be fine. I have left some like this for weeks or months at a time and generally if it is really airtight it will still be perfectly usable - most of the time I use it within a few days anyway. My favourite tool to spread this is a cake slice which allows you to get good control over how it goes on.
edwrdJanuary 23, 2012 7:04 pm /
HArry, what's the oldest piece you have done using this material? Do you know if it cracks over time? Thanks for your formulae, appreciate it. EdwardadminJanuary 23, 2012 8:31 pm /
Hi Edward, I have used this kind of texture for over 5 years. It only cracks when it actually dries after you have put it on the canvas - often I try and make it crack for effect. If you leave it for 24 hours to totally dry then it shouldn't crack at any time afterwards.
HarryNovember 10, 2011 3:42 pm /
Have you ever tried plaster of of Paris as texture past I have found your info very useful
JosephineOctober 15, 2021 4:12 pm /
Hi thanks for all your info before applying texture to canvases do you apply something to the canvas to bond please